Flower power at Stéphane Rolland

Jan 28, 2014, 4:34 AM EST
Looks from the Stéphane Rolland Spring-Summer 14 Couture collection
(Courtesy of Stéphane Rolland)

Looking to a different kind of architecture, Stéphane Rolland for his Spring-Summer 14 haute couture collection paid ode to the organic lines of blooms and butterflies.

Known for his generosity of movement, and the way he drapes and creates volume, Rolland was in his element, oscillating between molded sculptural forms and voluminous caftan silhouettes that billowed down the runway. Sculptural petal effects erupted from the peplums of column dresses, and strong asymmetric ruffles ran up jumpsuits, with dramatic cape effects offering a new take on the power shoulder. The season’s in hues, black and white, were out in full force, broken by strong pops of buttercup yellow.

Breaking with the organic mood, vinyl vests a la Courrèges and Pierre Cardin added a futuristic dimension that felt incongruous, as did high rectangular cut-outs on the skirt’s of dresses, though it didn’t seem to put off one of the label’s biggest fans — Kim Kardashian — who sat drinking it all in from the front row.

Not one for wallflowers, this collection was all about entrance-making dresses, notably the show’s ever-dramatic bridal gown, which, with its gravity-defying multi-layered cape of chiffon petals, resembled a giant wild orchid, its lavish fishtail train crafted from some 200 meters of hand-painted gauze.

-- Katya Foreman